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CLARITY
Clarity, according to Socrates... Not found in the
female mind… anywhere.
Webster's Dictionary defines clarity as
"clearness", he Nice Ice agreed with Socrates.
According to the superior male mind, flaws are not to
be found in men.
However, diamonds have long been recognized as "A
Girls Best Friend" and just as with men,
These "little
guys" definitely have flaws, which by the way,
Women tend to overlook
to get what they want...
The Moral of the Story:
Since women don't make sense to
men, and men can't see their flaws,
Then the flaws in a diamond
should be accepted as they are, and priced accordingly.

The term "Clarity" refers to how clear or pure a diamond
is. As with everything else in the world, the better it is the more
it costs. The clarity grade is determined by a skilled diamond
grader based upon the number, size, nature and location of the internal
(inclusions) and external (blemishes) imperfections.
Inclusions are defined by The Gemological
Institute of America (GIA) as "characteristics which are entirely
inside a stone or extend into it from the surface." These
internal clarity characteristics, refer to natural impurities or markings
such as: other mineral crystals, or small diamond particles that are
present within the host diamond; feathers and/or breaks; carbon spots; air
bubbles; pin points; clouds; knots; naturals; visible distortions of the
crystal structure; and even laser drill holes left by man's attempts to
remove or lighten other natural inclusions (see Clarity Treatments &
Fracture Filled Diamonds). In short, inclusions are nothing more
than Mother Nature's little fingerprints.
Blemishes according to the GIA are
"characteristics confined to or primarily affecting the
surface." These can be in the form of scratches, small nicks,
chips, abraded facet edges, and portions of the rough crystals surface
left on the finished diamond (naturals).
Most of our industry relies on the diamond clarity
grading scale developed by the Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.).
The clarity grading scale is as follows:
FLAWLESS (FL): Describes a diamond in
which a skilled observer, under favorable lighting conditions, cannot see
any inclusions (internal imperfections) or surface blemishes, after
thorough examination with a binocular microscope at ten power
magnification or with a 10x corrected loupe. Internal graining is
permitted, provided it does not draw any color or texture and is not
observable through the crown (upper portion). Small extra facets on
the pavilion (bottom portion) near the girdle (ridge between crown and
pavilion) are permitted, provided they are not visible when viewed from
above. So are small naturals, provided they are confined to the
girdle and do not flatten the girdle outline. It is standard
industry practice for the laboratories to add the comment "minor details
of polish are not shown" on grading reports for Flawless and Internally
Flawless diamonds, it's one of those legal catch-all phrases to limit
their liability and seems to appear on all FL and IF lab reports so
don't be freaked out by it...
INTERNALLY FLAWLESS (IF): Describes
diamonds which have no internal characteristics observable under the same
conditions as previously described, but which have minor surface blemishes
that do not penetrate the diamond. Internal graining is permitted,
provided it does not draw any color or texture. Surface grain lines are
permitted provided they are not too thick or numerous as to detract from
the beauty of the diamond.
VERY, VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED (VVS-1 &
VVS-2): Describes diamonds which have very,
very small inclusions which are difficult for a trained observer to detect
under the aforementioned conditions. Colored or textured graining is
permitted, provided it is not observable through the crown. Note:
Because the inclusions in such a diamond are so minute, we usually locate
them under 30 - 40x magnification and work our way down.
VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED (VS-1 & VS-2): Describes
diamonds with very small inclusions that can be difficult to detect under
the aforementioned conditions. With the exception of very large
diamonds and occasionally emerald cut diamonds, these inclusions are
rarely visible to the unaided eye.
 |
This oval
shape diamond, pictured here at 20x magnification, is graded VS-2
under 10x magnification and as you can see the inclusions are quite
difficult to locate. Nice Ice Photo. |
SLIGHTLY INCLUDED (SI-1, SI-2 & SI-3):
Describes diamonds with small inclusions which are usually obvious under
the aforementioned conditions. Minor or very small inclusions can
sometimes be detected in SI clarity diamonds (SI1
- SI2 - SI3)
with the unaided eye after being located under 10x magnification, however
some people may be able to locate inclusions in SI clarity
diamonds with just their eyes. People frequently ask us to locate
SI clarity diamonds which are "eye clean" because they have been told
that SI clarity diamonds can be eye clean, however our experience in
recent months has been that those few SI clarity diamonds which are "eye
clean" often contain inclusions such as extensive feathers or stacks of
feathers (small feathers in series) which may present a durability risk
to the stone... Given the choice between a small diamond crystal or
crystals which may be visible without magnification when the diamond is
under close scrutiny and an extensive feather or a series of feathers
stacking upon one another, we would definitely opt for the slightly
visible diamond crystal... thus the concept of the "eye clean" SI
clarity diamond is more a myth than a reality in the current market, if
you're looking for "eye clean" then we suggest moving up to the VS2
clarity grade.
 |
This round
brilliant cut diamond, pictured here at 20x magnification, has
inclusions which are much easier to detect than those in the oval
diamond pictured above. The inclusion pattern resembles a star
burst. This diamond is graded as SI under 10x
magnification. Nice Ice Photo. |
Note: SI3 is not a grade recognized by the
G.I.A. or the AGS Laboratory. The SI3 grade is part of the European Gemological
Laboratories (E.G.L.) grading system.
IMPERFECT (I-1, I-2 & I-3):
Describes diamonds with medium or large inclusions which are usually
obvious to a skilled observer with the unaided eye under favorable
lighting conditions.
 |
This round
brilliant cut diamond, pictured here at 20x magnification, is graded
as I-1 even though the majority of the stone is clean because of the
large feather-like inclusion (crack) in it's center is immediately
visible to the unaided eye. Nice Ice Photo. |
 |
This round
brilliant cut diamond, pictured here at 20x magnification, is quite
included. It is graded as I-2 and looks similar to this
without magnification. Notice how much clearer the I-1
(pictured above) is in comparison to this diamond. Nice Ice Photo. |
Many lower-end mall jewelry stores, department stores,
television shopping channels & warehouse type discount outlets sell
merchandise of this quality. It resembles crushed rock quartz,
but is technically a diamond. By the way, if you just have to have
the fine specimen I2 specimen pictured above, we're accepting sealed bids
starting at $450- and that includes the solitaire mounting.
Note: All preceding photographs were taken by,
and are the exclusive property of Nice Ice, Inc. and serve to provide
you with examples of each clarity grade and familiarize you with different
types of inclusion patterns. They should not be considered, nor are
they intended to be, absolute definitive examples for each clarity grade
represented. Clarity grading consists of more than just visual
identification of a diamond's inclusions and inclusion pattern. A
diamond should be examined with the unaided eye and under 10x
magnification so that an overall visual impression of the stone may be
considered. As you grade for clarity, consider:
-
Diamonds are not defective if they have
inclusions. They are normal characteristics and all diamonds
have inclusions, even flawless ones when viewed under 20 - 30x
magnification.
-
Diamonds must be clean for accurate grading.
It is quite easy to mistake dust, dirt and oil for inclusions.
-
Is the diamond being graded mounted or
unmounted? Metal prongs and bezels (metal frames) can hide
inclusions, blemishes, and chips.
-
Large inclusions tend to lower clarity grades more
than small inclusions. Usually a clarity grade is based on one or two
of the largest inclusions and small dust-like inclusions (called
pinpoints) are generally ignored.
-
The type of inclusion can have a dramatic affect on
the grade. For example, the feather (crack) in the round
brilliant cut diamond graded as I-1 (pictured above) would have a
greater affect on the stone than a small garnet crystal.
-
Inclusions that appear in the diamond's table (center)tend
to lower clarity grades more than inclusions located near the girdle
edge of the stone.
-
Dark inclusions tend to lower clarity grades more
than colorless or white inclusions.
-
If it is easy for you to detect inclusions through
the top of a diamond without magnification, it is almost certainly an
I grade. For a diamond to be graded as SI-2 or SI-3 in clarity
you should have to locate the inclusions under 10x magnification or
have them pointed out to you before you could locate them clearly with
the unaided eye.
-
Remember that your opinion of a diamond can be
affected by the quality of diamonds you have available for
comparison. If you compare an SI clarity diamond with the I-2
pictured above, the SI will always look considerably better.
Many jewelry stores carry only one or two qualities of diamonds so
that all of their merchandise looks comparable and no one diamond ring
will look better than another.
-
Higher clarity grades are not always more desirable
than lower clarity grades. A diamond graded as I-1 might look
better than an SI because of it's cut or color.
-
The clarity grade of a diamond is not fixed and can
change due circumstances such as scratches or chips caused by daily
wear. For this reason, carefully examine any diamond certified
more than six months ago or that is certified and being re-sold.
A diamond certified by the GIA in 1991 as being VS in clarity that
sustained a chip might be re-graded as an I-2 today, which would
represent a substantial reduction in value.
-
Clarity Enhanced or Fracture Filled diamonds are
graded as to what they face up as after treatment. Generally the
clarity enhancement process can improve a diamond by one clarity
grade, therefore an I-1 might grade as an SI-1 after treatment.
Grading is an intricate process and a large portion of
it is subjective. One diamond, graded by several different Graduate
Gemologists is likely to be given several different, but similar
grades. Likewise, diamonds sent to multiple gemological laboratories
for certification frequently come back with slightly different
grades. Sometimes, a diamond can even be sent back to the same
laboratory that previously certified it and receive an entirely different,
but similar grade just a few weeks later. What's important is that
the grades are similar and not at opposite ends of the scale. By the way,
the same conditions apply to color grading.
Diamond grading is subjective, and not an exact science.
So, don't get stuck in hard rules and absolutes because they're aren't
any. There are however guidelines and individual interpretations based on
education and experience. If you're looking at a diamond and you doubt the
grade a store has given it, simply ask them to explain their basis for the
grade. If they can't, or won't take the time to explain it, they probably
aren't the store for you…
We use a binocular microscope and television camera
that takes a picture of the inside of the diamond and put it on a
television screen to explain clarity to our customers. It's a little
hard to hide the inclusions in a diamond when the stone looks bigger than
your head… We like to inspect diamonds with our customers under twenty
or thirty power so that they can get a real good look at what's inside of
the diamond they are buying… Sometimes we play under seventy power,
simply because it looks cool.
It's our understanding from talking with customers who
have been referred to us that we're one of a few jewelers who want people
to know what's inside of the diamond they are buying. Apparently,
getting some jewelers to give you a loupe is like pulling teeth.
What their problem is we don't know... But we want you to be able to see
what you're buying, so we offer loupes for sale at very reasonable prices
in our Gem Tools For Sale section.
Oh, and on that note, something to hide that is…
Rumor has it that some disreputable jewelers switch stones and/or sell
synthetic cubic zirconia (CZ), paste, white sapphire, or whatever… Some
ingenious jewelers even add a few "inclusions"… Don't panic
because this is a no-brainer, take a few minutes to read the section on detecting
simulants where you'll learn how to separate diamonds from there
man-made look-alikes. If after that you're still unsure about what
your buying, click on Gem Tools For Sale because
we have a point and shoot tool (yes, tool) just for you. It's a lot
more effective than asking "Duh, how do I know this is a real
diamond?" Which by the way, translates as "How do I know
you're not a sleaze ball, who's going to rip me off?" and is a good
way to get punched in the snoz! I swear, some people have no tact…
Otherwise they'd say something like "Would you show me how to tell
the difference between a diamond and a (CZ) cubic zirconia?" Or
for you Type A's, substitute the word "simulant" for CZ.
May we help you find the diamond of your dreams?
Send us an email diamonds@niceice.com
and tell us what you are looking for.
Or give us a call at 206.319.8152 or Toll Free 877.844.5443
Copyright © 1996 - 2009 Nice
Ice, Inc.
AGS®
is a registered trademark of the American Gem Society (702) 255-6500
GIA® is a registered trademark of the Gemological Institute of America
(760) 603-4000
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